Living in Lanka

It does rhyme. . . .. doesn’t it ? Living in Lanka.

Well, this post and probably more subsequent ones are dedicated to my experiences of living in Colombo, Sri Lanka. The island nation, for those who are geographically challenged, is located south of Indian sub continent amidst indian ocean’s blue waters. A nation of 20 million is suffering for almost 20 years with an internal ethnic conflict and you can watch BBC for the gory details of this war. Buddhism is a way of life in this part of the world, probably more than what you’ll find in the east asian region.

I have experienced life here for the last 3 years. It is an experience, living in a society so rich in it’s historical culture as well as in it’s modern world challenges. Let me elaborate a little. Imagine a wednesday morning scene, typical to any modern day city. Clogged roads with people trying to get somewhere on time. A middle aged person sitting alone in his car, behind the steering wheel, looking anxiously to find a few inches of road in front. . . listening to a distant jockey’s continuous blabber on the radio. A young man on his motorbike navigating through the lanes and cars and vans and an odd cow. . . . .trying to get ahead while others sit and watch him go. A tuk tuk (three wheeled vehicle, commonly available as a cheaper alternative to a cab) driver taking abundant inspiration from the motorbike’s success trying the same and getting stuck between a car and a cow. A van full of children dressed in white, chatting and laughing. . . . looking outside the window in between their conversations, as though the world outside was a boring sitcom. A hassled traffic cop, trying to wave and stop vehicles from every direction but failing consistently. There is anxiety, there is rush, there is pressure to get out of the jam and reach somewhere while the clock continues to tick.

Now imagine you in one of these cars, having covered a distance of not more than 500 yards in last 30 minutes and the watch telling you that you will probably miss that morning meeting with your client. You are sure that there are a few other people around you in different vehicles having the same scenario. Infact, you are sure that your business partner who takes the same road to office everyday, must be stuck as well in the same jam. The heat is building up, mercury is climbing and then it happens. A young executive with a flash tie, could not stop his car before hitting another one in front. One can hear metal crashing, and smell rubber burning on the road. Both the impacted drivers come out of the car. You can tell, they are both being missed at office and they know it.

Five minutes later, after both of them have examined their cars back and front each. . . . not sure why would you do that, when one’s front hit the other’s back. Maybe for good measure, while they are out checking their cars. . .might as well check all sides, just in case something else might have fallen off. You realise that the cars are at a standstill now, the guys have called their respective insurance companies. . . .and will wait for their respective agents to turn up on site. Till then. . . . these cars will stay put in the middle of the road, while everyone behind them will now try to find a way forward. This will be maneuvered by getting into the next lane which is already overcrowded, thereby reducing the road by one or two lanes depending on the position of impacted cars in front. If you moved 500 yards in the last 30 minutes, it will now take double that time. You know it, they know and everyone else knows it too.

Few minutes forward in the scene, cars are now making their way through the open lanes, at a much reduced speed now. There is no visible distress signs, by way of an odd honk or a rude comment. . .or even a suggestion as such. The two cars are still in the middle of the road while their owners are exchanging visiting cards and fixing up an evening session of beer at a local pub. There is complete calm, as much as I can see

I have gone through this experience a number of times, and have been late for my appointments regularly. I tried starting earlier in the morning, and had to wait for my meeting partner while they came later due to the traffic. I figured out soon, that this is the way of life. Just like Buddhism is a way of life. Maybe the two are connected, since the traffic situation displays commendable patience and tolerance in everyone. This is what I meant by rich cultural heritage.

Ironically, there is a case of extreme intolerance when you consider a 20 year old war that has claimed over a million lives of compatriots, many killed through acts of terrorism based on communal affiliation. It still continues, even at the cost of declining living conditions for common population. There is no concrete initiative from either party towards a peaceful resolution.

While I live in Lanka, I feel very secure that no one will be rude to me even if I end up causing them inconvenience, through my stupidity. . . . . .but I am unsure if I will not get killed/abducted/tortured only because of my communal affiliation. And it is a living truth.

Sri Lanka has the highest no. of recorded deaths of journalists in the region. The country is now ranked 3rd most dangerous country for journalists after Iraq and Somalia, according to a Geneva based media watchdog.

Modern day challenges to a rich cultural heritage.

~ by virtualaggy on December 19, 2007.